‘Gilded Glamour’: A Met Gala Digest

Although I continue to mourn for our Orlando Met Gala, I can still enjoy the event. Fashion’s ‘Biggest Night of the Year’ came fast upon the last one, and the theme of ’Gilded Glamour’ feels like another one literary fashion-lovers will enjoy. My desire to attend the gala continues (although this year I have been too busy to be excited for its approach), and so, here is the second annual Late Romantic review of the theme, the outfits, and an idea for my own garb at the event.

‘Gilded Glamour’ has a wonderful double meaning which gives the attendee a choice of direction to go down: are they going to use the ‘gilded age’ as their inspiration, or the act of gilding? I would expect to see sparkles and metallics, yes, but also an engagement with the legacy of America’s first flush of wealth and superiority over the old world of Europe. I was hoping for engagement with classic Tiffany’s, back when they were lamp-makers, for inspiration from the Edwardian aesthetic of steamships like the Titanic and authors like Edith Wharton and Upton Sinclair, and (given that Serena Van der Woodsen herself was the hostess) from America’s ‘first families’ like the Roosevelts, the Vanderbilts, and the Rockefellers. There are so many icons of America with their roots in the Gilded Age: architecture like the Golden Gate Bridge and NYPL, cultures like Broadway, moments like families coming through Ellis Island, and individuals like W. R. Hurst (or in fact, the beginning of a media landscape predicated on opinion pieces and scandalous investigative journalism). There’s a lot to play with in this theme – although, perhaps, not a great amount of whimsy to be found. With multiple people in leather and latex, though, and some truly puzzling choices whose inspiration is not obvious, my overriding question of the year is – why? Is there an element I am not understanding, or does this simply speak to the catwalks we’ll see this year?

Celebrities who understood the assignment

Emma Corrin’s perfect non-binary take on American history is something I would have preferred to see last year, as that hat is potentially a little too tall to be considered a topper and resembles an Abe Lincoln stovepipe instead; that said, there wasn’t much room for whimsy in the theme and they found a perfect balance between fun and research in their outfit. Jessie Buckley also went with a fun take on androgyny, although seemed to be referencing Al Capone or Gomez Addams, which I wouldn’t necessarily associate with ’gilded’ (although I suppose The Addams Family are clearly old money…) Perhaps the spirals on her suit are supposed to represent the meanders of Grand Central station?

I’m not mad at Avani Gregg’s homage to ‘piecing’: back when fabric was expensive, this was a tailoring technique at all price points. I’m not sure if that was the intention of her gown, but it felt like a historical nod. Adwoa Aboah, on the other hand, seemed to be paying homage to Martin Scorsese’s adaptation of Age of Innocence, with her beautiful dress and puff sleeves, and she looked like she walked off the set of the film. The leg-of-mutton sleeves continued with Molly Sims’ look, which paired her poofy sleeves and long opera gloves with a slimmed-down silhouette and an all-over wash of millennial pink to keep her history-inspired look modern. Madelaine Petsch’s two-piece also took a bright and patterned fabric to the idea of leg-of-mutton sleeves, allowing her midriff to stop it being a stale look. Gwen Stefani did the same, using on-trend neon and a pared-down corset to modernise her big bustle skirt, and false nails to make her opera gloves more fun. Anthony Ramos used the similarities in shape between an American football uniform and a tails coat to do the same for menswear: his sporty yet sharp suit was playful and clever.

Lily James seemed to embody the Statue of Liberty, the follies, and the literal construction of America with an asymmetrical silhouette and beads large enough to be read as rivets. Her sparkling dress played with the dual meaning of ‘gilding’, which we also saw from Gabrielle Union: Gabrielle’s dress focussed mainly on glistening in the light, but was evocative of a skyscraper, and I loved the little posy of red at her waist which felt very Worth. Katy Perry also went one-shoulder, but with a Spanish lace that looked more dowager and layering that felt like another Worth-inspired element. A modern take on the bustle completed her look. I liked Naomi Campbell’s use of gilding, with the cheeky bedazzling of the Burberry logo as well using her own body as art. Yahya Abdul-Mateen II used the same technique to elevate his simple morning coat look, paired with chic jewellery everywhere from around his neck to his hair, and Jessica Chastain went for full sequins and accessorised with a magnificent turban and a snake curled all around her body to create a full-body shimmer and luxurious, louche look, where Megan Thee Stallion seemed to embody a Greek goddess – or gilt homeware made in the image of a goddess – with a beautiful feathered bolero. The cutouts in her torso shimmered almost as much as the dress itself, and the skirt pooling on the floor and leading down from a long slit fit her body perfectly.

I’m putting Kiki Layne here just because I love buttons and the shape of her skirt, alongside that moulded flower bodice: it might not have been obviously on theme (apart from her darling teapot clutch), but was truly and transcendently beautiful – similarly, Finneas deserves a mention because I want to wear that gorgeous blouse, and am perennially attracted to pleats. Sza went with a beautiful modern-historical construction, using the same artificial hot pink as Layne but combined with a corset and structured skirt (and amazing hat!) for a hybrid look that sang. Colour worked for Lena Waithe, too, who evoked the NYC skyline in a blue that spoke of the Statue of Liberty and a gorgeous vest that suggested the art deco patterns of skyscrapers. We saw the same idea on Awkwafina, whose gown was patterned with gently ornate waves straight from the Chrysler building, and was topped by a star, evoking the Empire State. The graduated coral-to-red look was a standout take on the neon colours trend that appeals to the modern eye and a more 20th-century style simultaneously.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, Masie Williams had a beautiful undressed look, with the long corset of the very early 20th century and a dress she appeared to be disrobing from, with embellishment in her hair but a sparse, goth palette in her clothes – playful and serious simultaneously. Lenny Kravitz had the same vibe, draping sheer fabrics over a corset and mixing gold and silver jewellery to marry history with a rock and roll style. Christine Baranski went monochrome too, looking imperial in menswear on top and with long skirt and sleeves, but with sunglasses and sequins to add pizzazz to very proper look. Claire Danes mixed undressed with Worth-esque rosettes, wearing a dress that looked like a fabulous nightgown and Mary Poppins’ Jolly Holiday gown simultaneously (perhaps she is a lurker on fashion history youtube and saw Bernadette Banner’s take on it?) Sophie Turner-Jonas’ Lizzie Siddall inspired look was pure goth goals – the hair was pre-Raphaelite perfection, and the dress was simple, trendy, yet on-theme.

Leslie Odom Junior used shapes to wonderful effect, and showcased sharp tailoring and wonderful accessories… but I’m not really sure how to interpret his look in the context of the theme. Travis Barker went a similar route, albeit a more on-theme, by changing the silhouette of a morning suit and pairing his tails with a long, pleated skirt to wonderful effect. Erykah Badu and Francesco Risso also Turned Up, which I respect, but in what felt like a very contemporary Japanese fashion-inspired pair of looks. I loved Erykah’s top hat, though: a great piece for this event! Gigi Hadid looked incredible, and I love the effort she put in to go with such a big look. Her quilted jacket was incredible and her use of texture and contrast really made something special, but I’m not sure what she was going for with regards to the theme. Perhaps a smoking jacket? I respect Kim Kardashian’s commitment to aesthetic: TWO original Marilyn dresses, a copy of one to respect the historical garment, and even posing with Marilyn’s own Golden Globe? I think she would have worn it regardless of the theme, and I don’t consider ‘cinema’s golden age’ to really be the same as ‘gilded glamour’, but I did love the total commitment to the Met Gala, as well as how she paired it with her own signature hairdo for a slick modern aesthetic.

Lizzo’s look was such a fit that I had to google multiple angles to work out what I thought – a great sign from a Met Gala look, which is a great opportunity to explore an idea in different ways in one look. Firstly, her hairstyle is a celebration of black excellence (if, perhaps, a little 1920s Josephine Baker). I loved her corset, and I loved that it didn’t fit traditionally, as it showcased her own body rather than caging it – although not historically-accurate construction, it definitely emphasised a more historically-accurate beauty standard! Her jacquard cape, when paired with her flute, looked more baroque than gilded, although I feel this was an intentional pun on the more rococo interpretation of gilding. I love that it was embroidered onto a heavy silk, as it felt very 19th century! Questlove’s cocoon coat did a similar thing for me: marrying streetwear, an Inverness overcoat, and muted Sun King vibes, it used draping to create something visually appealing yet clearly classically-inspired.

My winners

Sydney Sweeny’s historical effect, with a fabulous structured gown and corset-inspired bodice (which – in the pictures I’ve seen – does look like it didn’t fit right) in pure white, was very Edwardian. I liked the way her stiff peplum looked like an update on late-Victorian ruffles as well as the way the gown seemed like its own, beautiful thing – a harmony of all these inspirational elements. Alongside her was Chloe Grace Moretz, whose military-menswear look took the same idea of elements – brocade embroidery, high collar, bell cuffs – and made it just the outer layer to her look (as well as bedazzling it, naturally).

Normani’s neckline and sleeves seemed were a truly beautiful recreation of a gown from the late Victorian era, and her choice of velvet, too, reflects eveningwear of the time. In addition, her hat, massive ruffles, and midriff feel like a modernised version of Cecil Beaton’s take on the era in My Fair Lady, giving full fashion pedigree all the way through. She truly knocked it out of the park, being simultaneously on-theme and contemporary. Tory Burch, too, went for a Victorian neckline – although an off-the-shoulder style with heavy skirts that looked thoroughly 1860s, with black-and-white that married the historical look with something that looked like it ought to have been pulled from Princess Di’s wardrobe, resulting in another guest proving that pulling influences from different eras is a great shout! I saw the same thing from Tessa Thompson: elements of the older shapes, but in modern materials and fresh twists

Stormzy’s look was interesting: I don’t fully understand how it tied to the theme, but I’m hoping he was going for W. E. B. Du Bois realness, and continuing to promote black education and showcase under-appreciated icons with a pure-white graduation gown. It’s good to see men pushing the boundaries of fashion. I would guess that perhaps this was inspired by religious practise (the cloak feels priestly), but the construction of it makes me think of education more…

Kendall Jenner‘s incredible Queen Victoria carpet-sweeper was beautiful. It looks like it was inspired by the empress Rihanna’s yellow gown from the 2015 Met Gala as much as it was the empress of India’s mourning clothes, which is a callback I deeply respect, whilst making it a two-piece with a sporty top is a fun way of making it more modern. The lack of eyebrows only made her look more austere, and gave a chic insouciance to her whole demeanour. I love it.

Cara Delevigne’s look was truly glorious: in addition to gilding herself like a Bond girl, her immaculate red suit with military accents and cane looked made her look like an eligible dandy at a Victorian party. Very Walter Pater, very much a winning look, and she also won makeup. Kid Cudi also took inspiration from the movies, looking like a glamorous Phantom of the Opera in his cape with bejewelled fastenings and a matching royal blue suit. David Harbour went for the same idea, but with his cigar evoking a certain style of capitalist and his wholly traditional colour palette, he looked more Monopoly man than suave, misunderstood musician.

Bad Bunny might be the night’s overall winner: androgyny, history, fun and well-tailored, he held himself tall like he was riding a penny-farthing and accessorised perfectly with Oxfords, gold-gilded jewellery, and a fabulous vintage lorgnette. His Burberry look was unbeaten in my eyes.

If I were the type to be invited to the Met Gala

If I were an influencer-model-fashion world type, I’d also be happier with beads, sparkles, and metallics than I am as an average person, so would be comfortable wearing a dress that used those elements.

For a bold, fun, yet glamorous, outfit that combined both of the theme‘s interpretations, as well as mixing modern and historical tailoring, I would have to go with a dress inspired by the famous Tiffany’s jewel, The Bird on the Rock. Tiffany’s is a house which embodies the 1890s opulence, and by dressing as a citrine diamond I’d be able to glisten and glow as though I myself were gilded. One of the major trends of the night was one-shoulder gowns, and with this jewel as my inspiration I would be wearing a large, plumed parrot on my left shoulder (the right shoulder in photographs) to mimic the gem’s construction. The dress itself would be full-skirted and simple, as its bold colour and wild accessory would speak for itself. Ideally, I’d approach Schiaparelli to make this gown, as their house’s signature is using bold, surreal accents on simple gowns.

I’m actually not sure if this is the look Chloe Bailey was going for – her gilded, avant-garde shaped dress and gilded feather neckwear seemed to transform she herself into the bird of paradise and the diamond simultaneously. Hers was by Rodarte.

If I were myself

I understand the urge to be pretty at an event like this: most people will never get a chance in their lives to wear white tie, and the high-profile nature of the event means that even the most minor invitee has the opportunity to wear couture and be the very best version of themselves. That said, I do think half the fun of the Met Gala is interpreting the theme, so I think even the least fashion-forward guests ought to push the envelope whilst striving for that prettiness.

I am be tempted to repeat my suggestion from last year: Edwardian sportswear and archery paraphernalia, a la May Welland, but although this is a character from the Gilded Age, as an outfit it does not say much beyond that; I am also tempted by a ‘Gilda’ pun, but that doesn‘t feel intelligent enough, or a version of ‘Maggie: A Girl of the Streets’, which feels too intelligent (read: pretentious). I think the only solution would be to stick with my core inspiration of Tiffany, and somehow transform myself into a Tiffany lamp: I would wear a simple, if big, gown, made in a pattern inspired by one of their classic lamps, with panniers or a hoop skirt to evoke the shape. Using fabric layering and perhaps even lights, I would find a way to suggest that the fabric was glass whilst keeping my dignity as somebody without a supermodel’s body. Emily Ratajkowski’s Versace look had the same idea, but crossed with a fun Cher-by-Bob-Mackie beaded aesthetic that did her body justice, and looked a different sort of theatrical to what I’m imagining.

In my dreams, Tiffany would allow me to work with their in-house team and say that I was wearing their label – a dream only slightly more unattainable than the idea I would be invited to the Met Gala in the first place.

On This Topic:

• Instead of Karoline Zebrowska, this year I am sharing the digest by Mina Le.
• You want to see all the outfits for yourself.
• Read W. E. B. Du Bois, or at the very least watch a documentary on him. Truly, the man deserves your eyeballs.

To-Do:

• UCL
• Plan Greece (find food and entertainment in Athens)
• Get my watch taken in (at least 2 links)

Today’s Culture:

• Evie from The Mummy is my problematic fashion icon for heading to a hot country.
• Getting back into longer reads – I want to finish my Hilary Mantel and my series about witch / vampire academics.
• Leaving Twitter – I say a resounding ‘No, thank you!’ to the M*sk takeover.